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Turkey’s lush, humid and ubiquitously green Black Sea Coast surprises
those who imagine the country to be nothing but barren steppes. From
Turkey’s European border with Bulgaria to the Georgian border, dense
pine forests cover the mountain tops; lush vegetation and bountiful
crops grow in the lower elevations and valleys. Along the coastline,
mile after mile of beautiful uncrowded beaches offer sun, swimming and
relaxation. In the springtime, delicate wild-flower blossoms carpet
especially the rolling meadows in the hills of the Eastern Black Sea
Coast. Throughout the region, fishing villages and mountain hamlets
alike preserve their indigenous and traditional wooden architectural
styles. The humid climate and fertile soil encourage the cultivation of
a variety of produce, including tea, tobacco, corn and hazelnuts.
Once
called Trapezus, and later Trebizond, the modern town of Trabzon is the
major city of the region. It was founded in the 7th century B.C. by
Miletian colonists and was the center of the Comnene Empire established
after the fall of Byzantine Istanbul. The exiled Byzantine ruled until
1461, when the Ottomans conquered the area. The restored 13th Century
Byzantine church, used for centuries as a mosque and now the Ayasofya
Museum, is the jewel of Trabzon’s monuments. Splendid frescoes, some of
the finest examples of Byzantine painting, cover every surface of the
interior church walls. Several other churches were converted to mosques,
such as the Faith Mosque and the Yeni Cuma Mosque. The Ottoman Gulbahar
Mosque, a typical provincial-style building, is set in a lovely tea
garden. Wooden houses fill the old quarter in the ancient fortifications,
and it still retains the spirit of a medieval town. The house in which
Ataturk stayed has been made into a museum.
Boztepe
Pork on the hills above Trabzon, offers a beautiful view of the city and
the coastline. On the western slopes of Boztepe Hill stands the Irene
Tower, built by Empress Irene of Trabzon in 1340. Just east of the city,
the village of Surmene has an impressive 19th century mansion known as
the Kastel. Near Trabzon, south of Akcaabat, lovely higland meadows -
Karadag, Hidirnebi and Erikbeli - are ideal hiking and picnicking
grounds. The road inland from Trabzon winds through spectacular mountain
landscape before reaching the Zigana Tunnel, the longest in Turkey.
Nearby, Hamsikoy, a charming mountain village, has gained a national
reputation for its excellent cuisine and is also conveniently near the
Zigana Ski Center. Beautiful meadows and highland pastures are ideal
sites for outdoor activities and picnics. The traditional Kadirga
Festival celebrates the annual summer migration to the high mountain
pastures.
Altindere National Park provides a magnificent setting for the 14th
century Sumela Monastry, perched on a cliff face 270 meters above a deep
gorge. Surrounded by the ruins of the monks’ dwellings, the church is
covered inside and out with brilliant frescoes. Southeast of Trabzon,
Uzungol, a lovely alpine lake surrounded by mountains and meadows, is an
excellent camping, trekking and fishing area; its restaurants make it
the best place for eating river-trout.
Gumushane, on the ancient trade route between Trabzon and Iran, was once
of considerable importance. Many elegant buildings from that period
still remain. Set amid fruit groves and wild roses, the town makes a
natural stopping point between Trabzon and Erzurum.
Bayburt, the newly designated provincial capital, lies on the Silk Road.
Marco Polo and the inveterate Turkish traveler Evliya Celebi both passed
through this town. The remains of a Byzantine castle, important mosques,
Turkish baths and fascinating carved tomb stones are among Bayburt’s
significant monuments.
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