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Edirne was for some years the Ottoman
capital, and in the l8th century one of the seven largest cities in
Europe. On a verdant plain of poplar trees near the junction of the
Tunca and Meriç Rivers, this graceful historical city welcomes visitors
as they make their way to İstanbul and other points east. The people of
the Edirne area trace their origins beyond the rule of the Macedonians.
The Roman emperor Hadrian rebuilt the city and renamed it Hadrianople
after himself. With the division of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines
claimed Edirne and in 1361, Sultan Murat I added it to his empire.
Its position for almost 100 years as
capital of the Ottoman Empire accounts for its many historically and
architecturally important buildings. With its mosques, religious
complexes, bridges, old bazaars, caravanserais and palaces, Edirne is a
living museum.
The Sinan Mosque is the city's focal point.
Occupying the top of a hill, Sinan's design reflects the classical
Ottoman style. Built on the orders of Sultan Selim II, (1569-1575) it
attests to the technological abilities of the day and the genius of the
Ottoman's master architect.
Built between 1403 and 1414 by Mehmet I,
the Eski Mosque is · the oldest Ottoman structure in Edirne. The white
marble of its portal contrasts with the building's cut stone and brick
masonry. Calligraphic inscriptions of Koranic verses decorate the
interior.
The Üç Serefeli Mosque, built between 1438
and 1447 by Murat I, presages the great period of Ottoman mosque
architecture under Sinan and embodies both a new freedom from restraint
and advances in engineering. The northwest minaret has three galleries,
hence the mosque's name, and was the highest minaret until those of the
Selimiye Mosque eclipsed it.
Towards the end of the l5th century,
Beyazit II commissioned the architect Hayrettin to build him a complex
in Edirne which includes a mosque, Darüssifa (hospital), medrese,
kitchen and store rooms. The mosque is square in plan and covered with a
deep dome; over 100 domes roof the remainder. The most important of the
other buildings is the Darüssifa which stood out in its time as a modern
hospital with a unique and humane architectural design.
Little has changed in the Kaleiçi section
of Edirne since the Middle Ages. Narrow streets lined with houses wind
through the area. The number of small restaurants arid cafes reflect the
district's renaissance.
Sinan built several of the famous baths in
Edirne including the Sokollu, Tahtakale, Mezit Bey, Beylerbeyi and Gazi
Mihal hamams. His work is also seen in the Ahmet Pasa Caravanserai and
the Rüstem Pasa Caravanserai of 1561. The latter has been renovated and
serves as a charming hotel. The old bedesten of the early l5th century
still functions as Edirne's main market. As you drive around the area
you will notice many lovely Ottoman bridges gracing the Tunca and Meriç
Rivers.
Edirne has retained many of its colorful
traditions and customs. Every summer, where the Tunca River divides, an
emerald green meadow is created, called Sarayiçi, where the Kirkpinar
Greased Wrestling Contests are held. Shiny, slippery bodies grapple to
determine who will emerge as champion.
As you walk through the city and peer into
the corners of the grocery stores, you see blocks of white feta cheese,
a local specialty. Hardaliye, another of the city's delicacies, is a
grape drink mixed with mustard and marzipan. Scented soaps, earthenware
pots and straw baskets from Edirne make good souvenirs. You will find it
difficult to resist the beautiful embroidery work of the local women.
The Archaeology and Ethnography Museum
traces the history of the area from prehistoric to Byzantine times and
exhibits clothing from the late Ottoman period. At the Turkish Islamic
Art Museum examples of Ottoman architectural details, calligraphy,
manuscripts, Korans, weapons, glass and an imperial tent used on
military campaigns are displayed.
On the way to the Saroz Gulf in the Aegean
Sea, you can stop at Uzunkõprü to see an interesting bridge spanning the
Ergene River, built by Murat II in 1444. Its 174 arches, the highest of
which is 12.28 meters, make up its 1,354 meter length. The mild climate
and beautiful surroundings on the Saroz Gulf invite holiday makers for a
break of relaxation. On the northern point of the gulf are the lovely
Ibrice and Erikli beaches. Here the hotel and guest-house facilities are
plentiful and reasonably priced.
Enez (Ainos) was an important port in
ancient times, today it lies 3.5 km. inland. Its origins can be traced
to the l2th century B.C. and was an important settlement during the
Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. Currently, it remains an
open-air museum and was built by the Kyle people and was known as a
colony of western Anatolian civilisation. Enez Castle has been restored
several times throughout history and is well worth a visit. There is
also a church dating from the 6th century B.C., some carved tombs and a
beach with clear water. The people here are quite hospitable and Enez
makes an interesting stopover.
The Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains divide the
province of Kirklareli. Lush mountainous landscape dotted with quaint
houses transport you to an idyllic and tranquil frame of mind. The city
of Kirklareli's oldest mosque, the Hizirbey Mosque, was built in 1383.
The mosque complex includes a bazaar. Nearby stands a hamam also built
under Hizir Bey's patronage. The l4th century Kirklar Memorial with its
impressive 18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill honoring the site where 40
soldiers lost their lives when the Ottomans conquered this area
neighboring town of Babaeski also boasts a Sinan building in the Cedi
Ali Pasa Mosque.
Vize (Byzia), an important Byzantine
center, houses the Küçük Ayasofya church and a castle, both dating from
the Byzantine period. under the command of Murat I. The Archaeological
Museum exhibits finds from local excavations.
Kirklareli's Black Sea Coast is another
place to enjoy beaches and good fish restaurants. Igneada, 98 km east of
Kirklareli, lies squeezed between its sandy shores and the Yildiz
Mountains. Kiyiköy (Midye) is another holiday resort town with good
accommodations and picturesque dwellings from the Middle Ages; the town
and its land walls date from the Byzantine period.
The Sokollu Mosque in Lüleburgaz, on the
Edirne-İstanbul road, is an exquisite work of Sinan's that dates from
1570. The If you are travelling north to Bulgaria, linger for a few
hours in the peaceful and green town of Dereköy, the last stop before
the border.
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